Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
In December 2023, I found myself lying on my hotel bed in Istanbul, pondering a trip I'd been considering for the past two years: Saudi Arabia. Friends, family, and coworkers had often expressed their fears about traveling there, especially as a woman. The treatment of women and the perceived dangers of solo travel in Saudi Arabia dominated their concerns. Yet, my rebellious spirit, always questioning and seeking the truth for myself, propelled me to finally take the plunge.
I've always believed that people's warnings often reflect their fears, learned biases, or attempts to manipulate perceptions. This mindset has driven me to verify things first-hand, and this trip was no exception. As I sat in my hotel room, a mix of excitement and anxiety churned within me. Despite years of solo travel, I still felt those familiar butterflies whenever I embarked on a new journey. But instead of letting fear hold me back, I acted.
Saudi Arabia EVisa: fast & easy for EU nationals
I requested my visa online from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and a the same day, my approval arrived via email. The price for a multiple entry visa was 489SAR which is around 120EUR. I quickly booked a flight through Saudia Airlines for the next day. That evening, I could hardly concentrate on my dinner in Istanbul, my mind racing with plans and the thrill of the unknown. I'd dreamed of a meticulously planned 16-day road trip across Saudi Arabia, but here I was, diving in spontaneously, without even a place to stay. It was typically me.
My Saudi Arabian 90 days multiple entry EVisa
Arriving in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
Upon arrival, the bustling airport immediately captured my attention. The famous aquarium stood prominently, surrounded by men in their traditional thobes of various colors and 'shamag' and women in beautiful black abayas, many without headscarves. Since 2018, Saudi Arabia has undergone significant changes, granting more freedoms, especially for women, and this evolution was evident everywhere I looked.
Largest airport aquarium in the world, Jeddah International Airport
Saudi Arabia before 2018
To provide some context, before 2018, Saudi Arabia was known for its stringent laws regarding women's rights. Women were not allowed to drive, required male guardians for various activities, and faced strict dress codes. The country had limited entertainment options, with a ban on cinemas and public concerts. However, under Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman's Vision 2030 initiative, the country began implementing reforms to modernize the economy and society. Women gained the right to drive, travel independently, and participate more fully in the workforce. These changes, though met with mixed reactions globally, marked a significant shift in the kingdom's socio-cultural landscape.
3 star Hotel with 5 star service (*ratings on Booking.com do not match my experience)
My first night's stay was at Lamar Al Bawadi Hotel, a modest three-star apartment hotel in Jeddah, I booked this hotel once I arrived in Jeddah airport. I had a wonderful experience. The hotel's location is very convenient, making it easy to explore the city. The staff were incredibly friendly and attentive, always ready to assist with a smile. My room was clean and comfortable, offering all the necessary amenities. The free Wi-Fi worked well. Overall, it was a pleasant stay with excellent value for money. I would definitely recommend this hotel to anyone visiting Jeddah. Price varies and ranges from 45-85euros per night depending on the dates.
*Based on my personal experience, the ratings on Booking.com for this hotel do not accurately reflect its quality. My stay exceeded expectations in several areas, including service, cleanliness, and room amenities. The staff were exceptionally helpful, the rooms were immaculate, surpassing the average ratings seen online. I believe this hotel deserves a higher recognition for its great service.
Exploring Al Balad: A Step Back in Time
The next day, I decided to explore Jeddah, starting with Al Balad, the city's historic center. Al Balad, meaning "The Town," is a UNESCO World Heritage site, known for its ancient buildings and traditional architecture. The district's most striking feature is the intricate wooden balconies, known as "mashrabiyas," which provide privacy and ventilation. These balconies are reminiscent of similar designs found in Granada, Spain, a testament to the cultural exchange across the Islamic world.
Walking through Al Balad felt like stepping back in time. The narrow streets, bustling souks, and centuries-old buildings told stories of a vibrant past. I stopped for a traditional Saudi coffee, known as 'gahwa', savoring its unique flavor and the sense of history around me. I spent most of the day wandering through this beautiful landmark, mesmerized by its charm.
Al Balad in Jeddah
Eating Kabsa with my right hand, because it is considered to be the clean hand. Want to know why? The left hand is usually used to clean the private parts after going to the toilet.
Jeddah City Walk
As hunger set in, I found a local restaurant and tried 'Kabsa', a traditional Saudi rice dish, which I ate the traditional way, which is with the right hand. The modernity of Jeddah had surprised me, but I was eager to experience its more traditional side. Over my meal, I spontaneously decided to visit Makkah and Madinah, two cities that had always fascinated me.
After eating, I asked a local for recommendations on what to do next. He suggested I visit Jeddah City Walk. To my surprise, Jeddah City Walk was a vibrant hub of activity, with food stands, concerts, games, and flashing lights everywhere. Families, couples, teenagers, and groups of women, some without headscarves and others with open abayas, filled the area. It was a stark contrast to the Saudi Arabia I had been warned about.
While enjoying tea, a man sat in front of me and started making sounds and gestures. I quickly realized he was deaf. Using our hands and Google Translate, we managed to have a one-hour conversation. He worked for the Saudi government and volunteered to help other young people like him integrate into society. We exchanged Instagram handles and said our goodbyes, shattering another misconception about Saudi Arabia's social norms.
Me in my abaya in front of Masjid Al Haram, where the Kaaba is
A Life-Changing Decision
The next day, unsure about staying in Jeddah, I pondered visiting Makkah. The hotel manager asked if I was Muslim, explaining that only Muslims could enter Makkah and Madinah. This conversation rekindled a thought I had been contemplating for the past two years: converting to Islam.
Despite my Western upbringing and the changes, it would entail, I felt drawn to the faith. I had already stopped drinking and hadn't eaten pork in years, decisions unrelated to religion. Sitting in the lobby, I decided to act. I explained my situation to the manager, who made a few calls. Soon, I found myself with the hotel manager, the receptionist, and an imam on the phone. I recited the Shahada, the Islamic declaration of faith:
"Ashhadu alla ilaha illa Allah, wa ashhadu anna Muhammadur rasul Allah."
Everyone was so happy for me, calling me their sister, and I cried tears of joy. This was a personal journey, not meant to persuade anyone, but a significant part of my story I wanted to share.
I checked out, packed my stuff, and took a taxi to Makkah, costing about 80 euros. Once there, I checked into my hotel and took a shuttle bus to Masjid Al Haram. The sight of the Kaaba was awe-inspiring. Surrounded by people united in their faith, the experience was magical. I followed a woman and her family, mimicking their prayers, and soaked in the beauty and unity of Makkah.
A Road Trip to Taif
The next day, a friend from Saudi Arabia saw my post and invited me to Taif. Known for its cooler climate and monkeys, Taif was a three-hour journey from Makkah. The spontaneous road trip was a refreshing change, showcasing another side of Saudi Arabia with its mountains and cold weather. I tried Arika, a Southern Saudi breakfast made of flour, honey, dates, and butter, and found it to be the best comfort food.
Shivering on top of the mountain, I thought about my next destination: Madinah. On the way back to Makkah, my friend suggested taking the train. I checked online and booked a round-trip ticket for approximately 75 euros. The train journey from Makkah to Madinah took around 2 hours and 30 minutes. I said goodbye to my friend and boarded the train, again noticing the abundance of abayas and thobes. I find it beautiful how traditional clothing persists in most Middle Eastern countries, adding an air of elegance to everyday movements.
'Gahwa' which means coffee street vendor in the road to Taif
Me in front of Al Masjid An Nabawi, Madinah
Arriving in Madinah
After my spiritual journey in Makkah, I was filled with anticipation for my next adventure. The journey from Makkah to Madinah offered a scenic view of the landscape, adding to my excitement.
Upon arriving in Madinah, I was struck by the tranquility and spiritual atmosphere of the city. Walking to Masjid Al-Nabawi, I felt a deep sense of peace.
I had booked a stay at the Shaza Regency Plaza Al Madinah, conveniently located just a short walk from the Masjid Al-Nabawi.
After arriving at the hotel and settling in, I decided it was time to find some food. Asking around for recommendations, I was directed to Dewaniyat Almjales. As soon as I reached there, the sight of a yellow old-timer with leather luggage on top greeted me. Intrigued, I couldn't wait to explore more.
Entering the restaurant, I was welcomed by a man in a thobe and red 'shamag'. He asked me where I was from, likely noticing that I looked foreign despite wearing an abaya and hijab. I shared my story of traveling to Saudi Arabia and my journey to Madinah. His enthusiasm was infectious as he proceeded to show me around the restaurant, explaining the history behind various artifacts.
The restaurant was a treasure trove of Saudi heritage, featuring another old-timer car and numerous artifacts, from 'gahwa' coffee cans to old journals marking significant dates in Saudi history. Musa, my gracious host, invited me to a VIP family section, promising a meal I wouldn't forget.
To my surprise, a feast began to appear before me, featuring a spread of Saudi dishes from across the country. I hadn't even placed an order, yet I was treated to a culinary journey, trying everything from savory dishes to delectable desserts. The food was exquisite, and I was touched by Musa's generosity. He told me I was his guest for the day, an honor that left me feeling deeply appreciated.
Throughout my meal, Musa's hospitality made me feel as if I were part of his family. His warmth and kindness were a testament to the welcoming nature I had experienced since the beginning of my journey. Saudi Arabia, a place that had initially seemed daunting due to others' fears and misconceptions, was revealing itself to be a land of immense generosity and respect.
Towards the end of my meal, Musa introduced me to the son of a famous Imam from Makkah. Out of respect for both his religion and me, he avoided direct eye contact during our conversation. This gesture, rooted in cultural respect, further deepened my understanding and appreciation of the values upheld in Saudi society.
Musa serving me the Saudi 'gahwa' which means coffee
My journey in Saudi Arabia taught me not to judge a book by the cover others place on it but to read it through to the end. The country, with its thriving youth and ambitious spirit, embodies hope and change. From the Maldives-like waters of Umluj to the rose gardens of Abha, the thrilling city life in Jeddah and Riyadh, the breathtaking nature of the Tabuk region, and the historical richness of AlUla, Saudi Arabia is a land where tradition and modernity coexist harmoniously.
As I reflect on my experiences, I realize how deeply Saudi Arabia has touched my heart. The respect, kindness, and generosity I encountered were unparalleled, and I know that I will miss this incredible country dearly. Saudi Arabia is a place to discover, cherish, and return to, a testament to the beauty of exploring new horizons and breaking down preconceived notions.
Saudi Arabia, you are in my heart, and I will be back very soon.
Abha, the capital of the Asir Province in Saudi Arabia, is renowned for its cool climate, stunning landscapes, and cultural significance. Nestled in the Asir Mountains, it offers picturesque views, lush greenery, and vibrant architecture. Key attractions include the historic Shada Palace, Al-Muftaha Village, and the Abha Dam Lake. The city also boasts the Asir National Park, providing numerous outdoor activities such as hiking and wildlife spotting. Abha's unique climate and rich heritage make it a popular destination for both domestic and international tourists.
Umluj, often referred to as the "Maldives of Saudi Arabia," is a coastal town located on the Red Sea in the Tabuk Province. It is renowned for its pristine white sandy beaches, crystal-clear turquoise waters, and vibrant coral reefs, making it a haven for snorkelers and divers. The area is also rich in marine life and offers stunning island views. Visitors can explore nearby islands, engage in water sports, and enjoy the laid-back atmosphere. Umluj is part of Saudi Arabia's efforts to boost tourism through the Red Sea Project.
Tabuk, the capital of the Tabuk Region in northwestern Saudi Arabia, is a city rich in history and natural beauty. It serves as a key gateway to the north and is known for its ancient ruins, including those from the Nabatean civilization. The city boasts a number of attractions such as the Tabuk Castle, the Prophet’s Spring, and the Hisma Desert with its striking rock formations. The surrounding region is famous for its picturesque beaches along the Red Sea, making it a growing destination for tourists seeking both historical and natural wonders.
Curious about Saudi Arabia and Middle Eastern culture? Need help planning your itinerary or have questions? Reach out to me via email or Instagram for personalized insights and guidance.
Contact me at info@discoverwithayah.com or find me on Instagram @discoverwithayah. I'm here to assist you every step of the way!
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I feel like a part of this beautiful journey.you hit the point on your description of the journey..thanks for sharing your lovely moments with us